The Wines of Hyde de Villaine: A Slice of Burgundy in the Heart of Napa!

de Villaine, Hyde & Vivier

During our trip to California last month, we had the pleasure of discovering a very special yet easily overlooked gem nestled among a landscape of grand entrances and impressive architecture in the Napa Valley.

Hyde de Villaine, or HdV, is an unassuming winery with a very impressive pedigree. It is first and foremost a family affair, representing a collaboration between Hyde Vineyards of Napa Valley and Aubert and Pamela de Villaine of Burgundy. The connection? Aubert de Villaine's wife, Pamela happens to be Larry Hyde's first cousin.

Larry Hyde was born into one of California's oldest farming families and brought his love of wine and soil to the Napa Valley over thirty years ago. In 1979 he made the decision to purchase the land in Carneros that would later become Hyde Vineyards, and his career has been devoted to the expression of Carneros terroir. Aubert de Villaine is one of Burgundy's most well-known and respected individuals. He is proprietor of one of the world's most legendary wine estates, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, also referred to as DRC, which produces some of the world's most renowned wines, which also happen to be some of the most expensive. In addition to DRC and HdV, he also owns and operates A & P de Villaine with his wife Pamela in Bouzeron. To their partnership in the Napa Valley, de Villaine brings the foundation upon which HdV bases its theory and practices.

Stéphane Vivier & Moi

During our visit to the winery we had the pleasure of meeting Stéphane Vivier, winemaker for HdV since 2002. The charming and affable Vivier was born and raised in France and has studied winemaking and viticulture in Burgundy a number of other countries around the world including Switzerland, New Zealand and California. His goal as winemaker is to channel the nuance and elegance of Burgundy through the prism of exceptional California fruit and Carneros terroir. HdV was established in 2000 and definitely falls into the category of a boutique winery. The winery's total yearly production is just 3,000 cases with all of the fruit being sourced from Hyde Vineyards. Vivier shared much about the history of the winery and guided us through a delightful tasting of the HdV wines. 

The Lineup!

There is a rich historic legacy behind the wines of HdV. Featured prominently on the bottles is a coat of arms representing the de la Guerra family, one of the oldest documented families in California. Pamela de Villaine and the Hydes are descendants of this family and the presence of the coat of arms is meant to symbolize the sense of tradition, family and winemaking history embodied in this endeavor.

Our tasting of the HdV wines began with the 2010 De La Guerra Chardonnay ($45). On the nose were inviting aromas of citrus and minerals followed by a fresh and focused palate featuring subtle nuances of oak that beautifully highlighted the wine's floral and citrus notes. Made from from 15-17 year old vines this wine was aged in  a combination of neutral oak, concrete egg and stainless steel for eight months. Vivier eschews the use of batonnage or lees stirring and has refrained from using it since 2005. His reason? To truly capture the Carneros terroir in the glass, not the winemaking. He likens battonage to makeup used to conceal flaws and stressed the importance of doing the work in the vineyard in order to avoid compensating through various winemaking techniques. This wine demonstrated a delightful integration of Burgundian elegance and California opulence.

Next was the 2009 HdV Chardonnay ($60) crafted from 20-30 year old vines. A study in restrained elegance, this wine had subtle notes of citrus, stone fruit and spice with a lovely mineral character. It was aged for 15 months, 12 months in oak (20% new) as well as stainless steel. Vivier stressed the importance of stainless steel in the production of his Chardonnays explaining how it, "brings focus to the wines." The '09 Chardonnay is also unfiltered and unfined further demonstrating his "hands-off" approach to winemaking that truly lets the exceptional Hyde vineyard terroir shine through. Like the '10 De La Guerra, this wine was beautifully balanced although with more complexity.

Our first red wine of the tasting was the 2007 HdV "Californio" Hyde Vineyard Syrah ($50) whose name refers to the early California settlers or "Californios" who brought Old World sophistication to the Western shores of the US. This lovely Rhone-inspired selection was crafted from 12-15 year old vines and was rife with notes of black currant, roasted herbs and black pepper as well as a lovely minerality. As with each wine before it, it was well-balanced and very approachable although it could benefit from some bottle age as well. When asked what dish he would recommend pairing with this wine, Vivier had two different yet delicious suggestions: Ahi Tuna with soy sauce and sesame oil, or the French classic Blanquette de Veau.

Our final wine of the tasting was the 2007 HdV Belle Cousine ($60) which translates to "beautiful cousin," so named for Pamela de Villaine, Larry Hyde's first cousin. A Bordeaux-inspired blend of 60% Merlot and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon this wine exhibited enticing notes of black currant, sweet cedar and spice along with firm, chewy tannins. Much like the Syrah the '07 Belle Cousine was approachable yet would also benefit from some additional time in the bottle. As with all the other wine we sampled, the Belle Cousine was deliciously food friendly and had me instantly craving roasted lamb.

If you are a fan of Burgundy or enjoy a more restrained, elegant style of wine, the wines of Hyde de Villaine are a definite must! A big thank you to Stéphane for taking the time to meet with us and if you happen to be out in the Napa Valley be sure to add a stop to HdV to your itinerary.

Cheers,

Weekly Wine Pick: 2010 Gary Farrell Sauvignon Blanc Redwood Ranch!

This week's wine pick hails from California's Sonoma County, home to many a world-class Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. The 2010 Gary Farrell Sauvignon Blanc Redwood Ranch is neither, yet represents a delightful choice for the steamy days of Summer at a more affordable price.

The pioneering Gary Farrell Vineyards & Winery is best known for producing single vineyard Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs from the Russian River Valley but has also created this lovely expression of the Sauvignon Blanc grape. The fruit for this wine is sourced from Redwood Ranch located at the extreme southern end of the Alexander Valley. The Redwood Ranch has been producing exceptional fruit for the past five decades and growers Jim and Gayle Reed are committed to implementing sustainable winegrowing methods to ensure that tradition continues.

This 100% Sauvignon Blanc has a lovely pale straw hue with alluring aromas of citrus, peach and a hint of vanilla. On the palate flavors of juicy citrus, white peach, grass and a refreshing acidity make it very hard to put this wine down! This is a delicious wine for Summer and, with a kiss of oak, it has more complexity than your everyday Sauvignon Blanc. While it's perfect for enjoying on its own, it will also pair beautifully with the bright, fresh flavors of Summer including salads, grilled chicken and especially shellfish!

Grapes: 100% Sauvignon Blanc
Alcohol: 14.1%

Cases Produced: 1,563
MSRP: $25
Food Pairing: Shellfish, salads, grilled chicken or nothing at all!
Perfect for: A Summertime al fresco lunch or dinner
Where to find it: www.garyfarrellwinery.com

Cheers,

 

Chardonnay Around the World: Wines that Embody Qualities of Old Hollywood Glamour!

The Chardonnays Lineup

Last month's installment of "The Art of Wine & Food" at The Museum of Art Fort Lauderdale featured a selection of Chardonnays from various winemaking regions around the world. The goal was to showcase the different styles of wine produced from this often misunderstood varietal.

Since we frequently hear wines described using human attributes (i.e. voluptuous, lean, mature), I thought why not tie in my own personal penchant for glamour and compare each wine to an "Old Hollywood" icon based on its descriptors. I have to say, the exercise made for a very fun and interactive evening!

Me & Chef Lenore Nolan-Ryan

Delicious pairings for the array of Chardonnays were created by the very talented and always entertaining Chef Lenore Nolan Ryan. Collaborating with Lenore and her team is always a pleasure. She has such a wonderful understanding of how food and wine work together and her passion and enthusiasm for what she does is always inspiring. Fortunately for Florida foodies, Lenore has a wonderful cooking school where she teaches classes - be sure to check it out!

Without further ado, the Chardonnays for the evening included: 

2009 Joseph Drouhin Chablis Domaine de Vaudon: this wine is a Chardonnay from France's highly acclaimed Burgundy wine region that is best known for its lean, elegant character. It has lively notes of green apple, citrus and elderflower with a crisp acidity and lovely minerality - classic Chablis! Enjoy this selection and other unoaked Chardonnays paired with cheeses, oysters, ceviche, or grilled fish. With its lean, classic and elegant profile, this wine was, by unanimous vote, our Audrey Hepburn Chardonnay of the evening!
Food Pairing: Key Lime and Crab on a Beet Root & Sweet Potato Chip with Fondue Toasts

The Birthday Girls!

2010 Viña MontGras Chardonnay Reserva: this wine hails from Chile's Colchagua Valley, a sub valley of the Rapel Valley, in the Central Region of Chile. It was fermented partially in stainless steel and partially in oak and exhibits aromas of tropical fruit, apricots and honey followed by flavors of citrus, peach and spice. Pair this and other medium-bodied Chards with creamy dishes such as Lobster Bisque, Croque Monsieur or Butternut Squash Risotto. With it's fuller body (relative to the Chablis) and steely elegance, I proposed this wine as our Grace Kelley of the evening. Another suggestion was Brigitte Bardot - a fabulous likeness as well!
Food Pairing: Butternut Squash & Coconut Bisque 

2008 Merryvale Carneros Chardonnay: as the coolest part of Napa County, Carneros is desirable for growing cool-climate grape varieties such as Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. This full-bodied Chardonnay has enticing notes of hazelnut, ripe pear and tropical fruit complemented by a lovely minerality and sweet toasty oak. It also has a delightfully creamy, rich mouthfeel and luscious long, lingering finish. This wine and other full-bodied Chardonnays are ideal for pairing with decadent dishes such as Lobster Gratin, Duck a l'Orange or Indian/Curry dishes. With it's rich, full-bodied, voluptuous qualities, this wine was almost unanimously our Marilyn Monroe of the evening - other suggestions included Mae West and the comment was also made that, "whoever she is, she sure is a busty broad!"
Food Pairing: Curry Chicken with Caramelized Apple, Pink Peppercorn Goat Cheese and Crostini with Fig Relish  

A big thank you to Republic National Distributing Company for their continued support of "The Art of Wine & Food" series and for providing the Chardonnays for the evening. Please join us Thursday, October 27th when our very special guest host, James Beard Award-winning wine writer, art lover, and local celebrity Lyn Farmer will present "A Sense of Place: a tasteful tour showing how wines differ depending on where they are made." To make reservations, please contact Gail Vilone at gvilone@moafl.org or (954) 262-0249. Hope to see you there!

Cheers,

Merry Christmas & "The Wine Lovers Twelve Days of Christmas!"

My husband Steve and I wanted to wish everyone a very Merry Christmas! May your day be filled with fabulous family, friends, food and wine. I also wanted to share with you "The Wine Lovers Twelve Days of Christmas," an alternate and fun version of this Christmas classic. I first saw it on a tea towel I found at Sur La Table - gotta love that store!

"A Wine Lover's Twelve Days of Christmas"

1. A Pinot Noir in a Pear Tree

2. Two Toasting Friends

3. Three French Blends

4. Four Hearty Cabernets

5. Five Sparkling Wines

6. Six Corkscrews Turning

7. Seven Sommeliers Serving

8. Eight Charming Chardonnays

9. Nine Vines a-Winding

10. Ten Snobs Sniffing

11. Eleven Casks a-Corking

12. Twelve Fabulous Toasts

Tonight, after my sister cooks a wonderful Christmas feast, my family will be singing the original version of the "Twelve Days of Christmas" after we each draw a "day" out of a hat. We then have to put our signature spin on our "day" - believe me, there's alot of pressure on whoever gets "Five Golden Rings!" It usually gets pretty creative, especially after a few glasses of wine. Do you have any fun, family traditions you enjoy over the holidays? Cheers to a magical day!

Wine Pairing Principles for Thanksgiving and Beyond!

Holidays like Thanksgiving can sometimes cause an acute case of WPP otherwise known as wine pairing paralysis. With the cacophony of flavors and textures involved in a meal whose primary goal is to stuff oneself until bursting, what wine could possibly (1) complement the meal (2) appeal to a variety of palates and (3) not break the bank? Don’t fret, my fellow wine lovers, here are a few tips to help make the process a little easier for Thanksgiving or any other holiday meal.

When presented with dishes such as roasted turkey, caramelized onion and cornbread stuffing, cranberry compote, sweet potato casserole and Brussels sprouts at the same meal, the best wines to select (and guests too I might add) are those that “play nicely with others.” Choose wines that are fruit-forward with a food-friendly acidity that will not only stimulate your taste buds but “do no harm” to your already flavor filled meal. Hold off on tannic Cabernet Sauvignons or heavily oaked Chardonnays and opt instead for lighter style Rieslings, unoaked Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Merlot.

The same principles apply when trying to satisfy a variety of palates at your holiday gathering. Avoiding wines with harsh tannins and heavy oak influence is usually a good game plan. Select a fruity, approachable Cru Beaujolais or crisp, bubbly Spanish Cava to appease your guests. While universally appealing, these wines will also complement the flavors in your meal beautifully.

Thirdly, we all know holidays like Thanksgiving can involve feeding a small army of family and friends; however, finding an appropriate wine to serve doesn’t have to break the bank. Choose wines from regions known for producing great values at reasonable prices including Spain’s La Rioja, Chile’s Central Valley and France’s Beaujolais AOC to name a few. Save your Classified Growth Bordeaux and California cult collectibles for another occasion! Stock up on your favorite value wines and have them on hand when guests drop by for some “holiday cheer.”

Use the above principles to eliminate your wine pairing paralysis and get you through any holiday meal in style. Here are a few recommendations to get you started – Cheers and have a fabulous Thanksgiving Holiday!


1. J Vineyards “Cuvée 20” Brut Sparkling Wine NV $20
2. Dr. Heidemanns-Bergweiler Riesling QbA Mosel 2009 $12
3. Castillo de Molina Chardonnay Reserva, Casablanca Valley 2009 $15
4. Bodegas Faustino VII Rioja 2007 $12
5. Louis Jadot Moulin-à-Vent Château des Jacques 2009 $18
6. Viña San Pedro 1865 Single Vineyard Syrah 2007 $25

Bon Appétit,