Bal Harbour Just Got Even More Fabulous: Chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten's J&G Grill!

My fellow Foodies and Fashionistas, now there's yet another delicious reason to visit Bal Harbour, South Florida's world-class shopping destination! Located directly across the street from the heralded shops, ensconced in the über-chic St. Regis Bal Harbour Hotel is world renowned Chef Jean Georges Vongerichten's latest culinary outpost: J&G Grill. 

The eatery exudes modern elegance with a beautiful, airy dining room replete with distinguished grey oak herringbone floors and expansive floor to ceiling views of the Atlantic Ocean. The decor is modern yet warm with creative light fixtures and welcoming banquettes against a backdrop of majestic palm trees. The inviting hues of the space are the perfect venue for the exquisite cuisine which is just as much a feast for the eyes as it is for the palate.

Watermelon with Goat Cheese & Black Pepper

The staff was equally inviting and we were greeted warmly and shown to a lovely table for two overlooking the ocean. We started with chilled flutes of Veuve Clicquot Brut Rosé Champagne and a lovely amuse bouche of Watermelon with Goat Cheese and Black Pepper. This mouth watering pairing certainly set the tone for the deliciousness to come.

A duo of Sashimi followed, beginning with Hamachi Sashimi with Ginger Vinaigrette and Avocado. Light, colorful and full of flavor this dish demonstrated the thoughtful presentation and impressive attention to detail inherent in every dish we sampled throughout the evening. The hamachi was fresh and succulent and the subtle spice of the ginger vinaigrette lingered like a memorable kiss. The Ahi Tuna Citrus and Avocado also featured ingredients at the peak of freshness and flavor. This delicious duo definitely left us wanting more!
 

Hamachi Sashimi with Ginger Vinaigrette & Avocado

The Hearts of Palm Salad with Coconut Dressing was refreshing with lots of fabulous texture. It paired remarkably well with an elegant white Burgundy, the '09 Vincent Girardin Puligny-Montrachet 'Vieilles Vignes.' The wine's creaminess was nicely matched with the overall texture and weight of the dish while it's acidity was a nice foil to the richness of the coconut and avocado. This wine also paired very well with our next dish, a vibrant green Spring Pea Soup with Croutons. In the creative presentation, the soup is poured atop a dollop of foam and a smattering of croutons to create a frothy, inviting bowl of deliciousness that highlights the fresh flavors of Spring with a hint of decadence. 

Petrossian Caviar with Fried Egg, Brioche & Crème Fraîche

We really kicked things up a notch with our next dish: Petrossian Caviar with Crispy Fried Egg, Toasted Brioche Cube and Vodka Crème Fraîche. Yes, you read that right! This dish was decadence and comfort food rolled into one and I would be more than happy to have this for breakfast any day of the week! The egg was cooked to perfection and the vibrant yellow yolk created a deliciously oozy sauce that brought all the elements of this spectacular dish together. This one is a definite must try!!!
 

Next, a duo of fresh fish was complemented beautifully by an '09 Archery Summit Premier Cuvée Pinot Noir. It was very refreshing to have red wine paired with fish, again demonstrating the insightful pairings by our Sommelier. The Snapper with Edamame, Tomatoes and Fresh Thyme was delicious and full of flavor as was the Seared Mahi with Fermented Black Bean Vinaigrette and Bok Choy with Mint. The wine paired especially well with the mahi and it's subtle heat and flavor of fresh mint.

In a departure from seafood, we then sampled the Soy Glazed Short Rib with Apple-Jalapeño Puree and Rosemary Bread Crumbs. As a longtime fan of the short rib, this one was delectable with the exceptional "no-knife-necessary" texture only 14 hours sous vide can provide. In addition to the succulent texture of the meat, this dish also demonstrated the mastery of flavors that was so well choreographed and executed in all the dishes we sampled. The crisp, fresh flavor of the green apple and the spice of the jalapeño was a nice contrast to the decadent short rib. The '08 Nine Hats Sangiovese from Washington state's Columbia Valley rounded things out very nicely.

Warm Chocolate Cake with Vanilla Ice Cream

Thankfully, the dedication to food and wine pairing at J&G Grill also extends to the dessert menu! We enjoyed the '08 Alvear Pedro Ximinez Montilla-Moriles de añada with its notes of date, toffee and fig with a delightful Warm Chocolate Cake with Vanilla Ice Cream. We also had the chance to sample a Tropical Fruit Vacherin with Key Lime Gelee and Shards of Meringue that was a wonderful mixture of sweet and tart.

J&G Grill is a wonderful addition to the South Florida fine dining scene. We were very impressed with every aspect of our experience, from the ambiance to the delicious and innovative food that delivers everything it promises. The extensive wine list and knowledgeable staff also make enhancing your experience with wine a real pleasure. While it is pricey, this is indeed a very special establishment that combines the South Florida experience with culinary excellence wonderfully executed by Chef de Cuisine Richard Gras. Next time you're in the mood for something special, give J&G Grill a try!

J&G Grill is located at the St. Regis Bal Harbour Resort at 9703 Collins Avenue, Bal Harbour, FL 33154. For reservations or more information, please call 305-993-3333 or visit www.jggrillmiami.com.


Cheers,

An Evening of Vintage Veuve Clicquot with Winemaker Pierre Casenave!

The Lovely Lineup!

Vintage Champagne. 

This is definitely one of my favorite word combinations of all time. As a bona fide Bubbly Girl I was thrilled to receive an invitation to an exclusive winemaker dinner featuring vintage offerings of Veuve Clicquot Champagne. Let's just say it didn't take me long to accept!

Pierre Casenave, Moi & Don Derocher

The dinner took place at one of my favorite wine venues in South Florida, the Via Luna Wine Room at The Ritz Carlton, Fort Lauderdale presided over by the dapper, yet down to earth Sommelier in Residence, Don Derocher. Our special guest for the evening was Pierre Casenave, winemaker for Veuve Cliquot since 2008, who expertly guided us through the five featured vintages. Ritz Carlton Chef de Cuisine Christian Clair, also from Champagne as luck would have it, created delicious dishes to complement each wine.

Madame Clicquot at the Champagne House in Reims, France

While many people know Veuve Clicquot for their signature "Yellow Label" Brut bottling, there is quite a bit of historical significance behind this Champagne House which was founded by Philippe Clicquot in 1772. The House actually gave rise to one of the first businesswomen in history when Madame Clicquot (née Barbe-Nicole Ponsardin) was widowed at the age of 27 and took over the family business in 1805. During her life she made many contributions to the history of Champagne including the production of the first rosé champagne, the production of the first vintage champagne in 1810, and the development of the riddling table in 1816. The Champagnes of the House still reflect Madame Clicquot's penchant for Pinot Noir, Veuve Clicquot's signature grape.

Our tasting began with the 1978 Veuve Clicquot Brut Rosé whose color was a fusion of copper and salmon pink with a faint bead of bubbles tracing its way to the surface. This 34-year old wine had aromas of stewed strawberry and hazelnut with conspicuous oxidative notes; it was almost Port-like in nature. Casenave pointed out that the wine's tertiary flavors might lead you to believe the wine was aged in oak although no oak was used in its production. Chef Clair prepared Shaved Prosciutto di Parma with Roasted Eggplant and Ciabatta Crostini to pair with this wine, which harmonized particularly well with the roasted eggplant.

Next was the 1985 Veuve Cliquot Brut Rosé which was an interesting contrast to the '78. The '85 was a bright salmon pink with hints of copper and an active bead. This wine had lovely, subtle aromas and flavors of strawberry, raspberry and spice and seemed much fresher and younger than you might guess given its age. It also had a crisp, food friendly acidity and paired wonderfully with Diver Scallops with Forest Mushroom Risotto and White Truffle Oil. The flavors of the rosé synergized especially well with the truffle notes! Casenave used the comparison of the '78 and the '85 to illustrate the distinct personality of every vintage.
 
Our third bubbly of the evening was the 1993 Veuve Cliquot "Gold Label" Brut which was pale gold in color with a vibrant bead. It had a delightful toasty, yeasty nose and flavors of citrus, toasted brioche, hazelnut and spice. This wine was rich and complex with lovely structure. It was paired with Seared Branzino Filet with Rosemary Polenta Cake and Tomato Caper Vinaigrette and the nuttiness of the wine beautifully highlighted the flavor and texture of the fish. 

Next was the House's tête de cuvée, the 1998 Veuve Clicquot La Grande Dame. In contrast to the '93 "Gold Label" Brut's richness, the '98 La Grande Dame was very delicate with aromas and flavors of white flowers, citrus, toast and minerals. It was pure and poised and exceptionally elegant. Casenave explained the first vintage of La Grande Dame was created in 1972 to celebrate the House's bicentennial and as a tribute to Madame Clicquot. While the Beef Tenderloin with Roasted Garlic Puree, Baby Carrots and Cipollini Onions accompanying the wine was delicious, I was secretly craving the simple, elegant flavors of lobster with drawn butter.

Our final wine of the evening was the 1998 Veuve Clicquot La Grande Dame Rosé. This wine had a gorgeous, deep raspberry hue and perfumey aromas of juicy red berries, vanilla and cassis. The enticing flavors of ripe raspberry, black currant and spice were delightful and while this wine was somewhat opulent, it demonstrated remarkable balance. I didn't know whether to dab some behind my ears or drink it - so I did what any bubbly-loving girl would do: both! This fabulous rosé paired beautifully with Chef Clair's Strawberry Bavarois with Strawberry Mint Salsa and Fresh Whipped Cream.

Cheers to Don, Christian and the team at The Ritz Carlton for a most enjoyable evening! If you have the chance to stop by the Via Luna Wine Room, be sure to make the acquaintance of Sommelier Don Derocher and request a tour of his fabulous Wine Vault. 

Cheers,

"Foods and Fine Wines of the Rich and Famous" with Ariane Daguin & Andrea Robinson at SoBe Wine & Food Festival!

Presenters Andrea Robinson & Ariane Daguin

Last weekend the 2012 South Beach Wine & Food Festival descended upon South Florida like a hurricane of deliciousness! In addition to all the wining and dining, the festival devotes a large portion of the weekend to educational seminars featuring many respected food and wine personalities. These seminars are usually my favorite part of the weekend and this year proved to be no exception. Driven by my penchant for all things glamorous, I was especially drawn to a seminar entitled "Food and Fine Wines of the Rich and Famous" presented by Ariane Daguin, proprietress of D'Artagnan Gourmet Foods and Andrea Robinson, Master Sommelier. Needless to say, I signed up immediately!

Ariane Daguin, Founder of D'Artagnan

Ariane Daguin is the founder of D'Artagnan Gourmet Foods, the leading purveyor of organic poultry, game, foie gras, pâtés, and wild mushrooms to the United States. Born into a world of good food, Daguin's father, André was chef-owner of the Hotel de France in Gascony, and is known throughout France for his artistry with foie gras and other Gascon specialties. In 1985, after pursuing a degree from Columbia University and working part-time for a New York pâté producer, Ariane launched D'Artagnan which, at the time, was the only purveyor of foie gras and game in the United States. She named her company after the character immortalized as the fourth Musketeer in Alexandre Dumas' novel "The Three Musketeers" who she described in her charming, thick Gascon accent as, "a good guy who did the right thing."

Co-hosting the seminar was one of my favorite women in the world of wine, the sprightly, energetic and imminently knowledgeable Andrea Robinson. Robinson is one of only 17 women in the world to have achieved the coveted title of Master Sommelier and also graduated with honors from the French Culinary Institute where she later served as Dean of Wine Studies. She was also the first woman ever chosen as Best Sommelier in the United States by the Sommelier Society of America, was named Outstanding Wine and Spirits Professional by the James Beard Foundation in 2002, and was selected by Bon Appétit Magazine as Wine & Spirits Professional of The Year in 2004. Robinson has also authored many fabulous books and is a true master of food and wine pairings. Yet, despite all of her impressive credentials and accomplishments, Andrea is about as down to earth and approachable as they come. You gotta love that!

For the seminar, Daguin provided an assortment of decadent specialties from D'Artagnan including:

1. Foie Gras Medallion with Black Truffles

2. Black Truffle Butter and Duck Prosciutto Tartine

3. Pâté de Campagne, Classic French Country Style Terrine with Cornichon

4. Venison and Dried Cherry Sausage (not pictured)

5. "French Kiss" - Armagnac-marinated prune filled with  creamy foie gras mousse

Robinson countered with an equally fabulous lineup of wines including:

1. Krug Grand Cuvée Brut Champagne NV

2. Veuve Clicquot Rosé Reserve 2004

3. Domaine Faiveley, Mercurey 1er Cru, Clos des Myglands 2009

4. Dela Frères Côte-Rôtie, Seigneur de Maugiron 2008 

5. Emilio Lustau East India Solera Sherry, Andalucia, Spain

Me & Andrea Robinson

After we were introduced to the food and wine, the pairing adventure began! Through a guided and extremely enjoyable trial and error process we came across some spectacular matches. The richness of the truffle mousse paired beautifully with the texture and acidity of the Krug Grand Cuvée as well as the sweet, nutty flavor of the Emilio Lustau East India Solera Sherry.

The Black Truffle Butter and Duck Prosciutto Tartine was a spot on match with the '08 Dela Frères Côte-Rôtie. The raspberry, smoke and spice notes created a beautiful synergy with the earthy black truffle and flavorful duck.

The Pâté de Campagne and the '04 Veuve Clicquot Rosé Reserve made a lovely couple. The red fruit notes and creaminess of the Champagne really complemented the flavor and texture of the pork beautifully. 

The Venison and Dried Cherry Sausage went remarkably well with the '09 Domaine Faiveley Burgundy. The synergy of the pinot noir, venison and dried cherries was a crowd favorite. The sausage, which also contained some pork, was also quite enjoyable with the Veuve Clicquot Rosé.

 

The pièce de résistance of the tasting involved the "French Kiss," a culinary gem the likes of which I had never tasted. Who knew a prune soaked in Armagnac and stuffed with truffle mousse could be so positively delicious? Paired with the sweet, caramel notes of the Emilio Lustau Sherry, this was definitely a "kiss" I will not soon forget.

A big thank you to Ariane Daguin and Andrea Robinson for such a fun and educational seminar. It was a lovely afternoon experiencing the "high-life" through food and wine and learning some deliciously decadent pairings as well!

Cheers,

Dishes to Pair with your Bubbly this New Year's Eve!

New Year's Eve is upon us and if you need any last minute dishes to pair with your bubbly, The Glamorous Gourmet is here to help! Champagne and sparkling wines pair remarkably well with a variety of cuisines and are often underestimated as "food wines". From grilled fish to spicy Thai dishes, a sparkler's versatility has you covered! Here are a few pairings that are sure to delight your palate as you ring in 2012.

As I mentioned in my last post, Champagne and sparkling wines done in a Brut style appeal to a variety of palates - it's actually hard not to like them! These sparklers make a fabulous aperitif and pair deliciously with a variety of hors d'oeuvres including one of my personal favorites, Roasted Fingerling Potatoes with Creme Fraiche and Caviar. The acidity of the sparkling wine complements the brininess of the caviar and is a nice foil for the creaminess of the creme fraiche - yum!

Sparkling Recommendations:

Biltmore Estate Méthode Champenoise Blanc de Blancs Brut NV

Taittinger Brut La Francaise NV

A Rosé Champagne or Sparkling wine brings a lovely pink color to the party as well as more pronounced berry and fruit flavors. Many Rosés can stand up nicely to "bigger" dishes including lobster, swordfish or even roasted duck. I really enjoy pairing a Rosé sparkler with this delicious Seafood Stew. Chock full of shrimp, mussels and fish in a tomato-based broth, this dish is a fabulous match for all the deliciousness a Rosé sparkler has to offer.

Sparkling Recommendations:

Domaine Carneros Brut Rosé Cuvée de la Pompadour NV

Nicolas Feuillatte Brut Rosé NV

For dessert, pair a sparkler with a little sweetness to it, like a Demi-Sec or Sec, with a Pear Clafouti for a guaranteed crowd pleaser! This lightly sweet, delicious dessert lights up when complemented by a sparkling wine with similar characteristics. Please don't shy away from the sweetness of the bubbly! Even with a bit of sugar, sparkling wine still retains its hallmark acidity that balances everything nicely. I am a big fan of offering a dessert wine to your guests in general, it's such a nice touch and such an underappreciated segment of the wine world. Your friends will surely think you're a Glamorous Gourmet when you utter, "Demi-Sec, Anyone?"

Sparkling Recommendations:

Veuve Clicquot Demi-Sec Champagne 

Gruet Demi-Sec Sparkling Wine

I really hope you enjoy these pairings! These are some of my favorites and I'm very happy to share them with you. I hope you've enjoyed Champagne Week on The Glamorous Gourmet and I'd like to wish you all a wonderful and delicious New Year. Looking forward to lots more food and wine fun in 2012!

Cheers,

An Eggcellent Easter Sunday & Birthday Dinner in One!

I just loooove Spring! The weather here in South Florida is exceptional; cheery, vibrant colors abound (prime time to break out your Lilly Pulitzer); and one of my favorite holidays, Easter Sunday, is right around the corner. Easter has added significance in our house because Steve and I got engaged on Easter Sunday a few years ago. He hid the ring in a plastic egg - clever guy! As if that wasn't enough, my birthday also falls around and, in certain years, actually on Easter - so you can see there are always plenty of reasons to celebrate!

I usually offer to host Easter dinner and I was particularly looking forward to it this year because of the "Savor the Moment" Challenge. Our fabulous James Beard Award-Winning cookbook is rife with recipes perfect for an eggs-cellent Easter meal. Recipes I chose for this year's Easter Feast included the Artichoke Cheesecake (pg. 56), The Herbed Leg of Lamb (pg. 155), Strawberry Patch Soup (pg. 113) and, one of my all-time favorites, Green Beans and Friends (pg. 216).

Upon arrival, our guests were greeted with the delicious Artichoke Cheesecake and assorted cheeses including Brie with Red Pepper Jelly and a tasty Dill Havarti. To pair with our hors oeuvres we served Veuve Clicquot NV and a 2009 Crios de Susana Balbo Torrontes from Argentina. Susana Balbo, the winemaker, selected the term "crios" meaning "offspring" to indicate these wines are meant to be enjoyed young. Torrontes is the primary white grape varietal of Argentina and I love its distinctly floral aromas, citrus flavors and pleasing acidity. It paired very nicely with both the cheeses and the Artichoke Cheesecake with it's creamy delicious flavors of garlic, pimento, feta cheese, cream cheese and artichokes. I made the Cheesecake the night before, which was super convenient. It requires the use of a springform pan which sounds intimidating but actually makes serving a breeze! As suggested, I garnished it with basil leaves and chopped pimiento and, voila! the hors oeuvres were served!

Just before dinner as an "amuse bouche," I served small glasses of "Savor the Moment's" Strawberry Patch Soup. I followed the directions as stated in the cookbook, blending together 16 ounces of fresh strawberries, 1 cup sour cream, 1 cup half and half, 1/4 cup sugar and 2 tablespoons white wine and blended until smooth. I also added some Chambord, a black raspberry liqueur, which really enhanced the flavor of the strawberries. I also made this recipe the night before, chilled in the fridge and served up the next day garnished with some mint and chopped strawberries marinated in a little additional Chambord. Light and refreshing, it was the perfect palate cleanser before our Easter meal.

For the main event, we went with the dynamic duo of "Lamb and Ham" - like Batman and Robin, an unbeatable pair! The Herbed Leg of Lamb recipe was from "Savor the Moment" and the ham, one of my all-time favorite holiday indulgences, was a Honey Baked Ham. I must tell you, my name is Stephanie and I am a ham-a-holic! I'm not sure what it is about a Honey Baked Ham, maybe it's the crispy, sugary coating or the perfectly seasoned, spiral slices but I just can't get enough! I am also happy to report the Herbed Leg of Lamb, which I made for the first time on Easter Sunday, was positively delicious (whew)! Seasoned with olive oil, crushed garlic, rosemary, thyme, marjoram, salt, pepper and dusted with flour, the bone-in leg of lamb roasted in the oven for a couple hours until it reached 145 degrees for medium rare. I basted it frequently with white wine and water added to the pan prior to roasting. In addition to the "Ham and Lamb" I also served Rosemary Roasted Potatoes and, the much requested holiday staple, Green Beans and Friends. I have included the recipe for the lamb below! Just FYI I used fresh rosemary and thyme instead of dried and I roasted it based on temperature, not time.

To pair with our Easter feast we served a 2007 Domaine Palon Vacqueyras. Vacqueyras is a French wine Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée (AOC) in the southern Rhône wine region of France. It lies in close proximity to the much heralded Chateauneuf du Pape AOC and is primarily a red wine region with some white and rosé wines also being produced. The Domaine Palon Vacqueyras is a blend of 75% Grenache, 16% Mourvedre, and 9% Syrah, the principal red grape varietals of the region. It had a gorgeous, deep ruby/purple color and tantalizing aromas of black cherry, cassis and licorice. This delicious, full-bodied wine complemented the lamb beautifully with its bold tannins and juicy flavors of black currants, black cherries and pepper. It had a nice long finish and could easily age for a few more years in the bottle although, I have to tell you, it is quite delicious right now!

After our fabulous Easter meal we were all sitting around the table savoring the moment when, to my surprise, Steve emerged from the house with the most beautiful birthday cake I have ever seen! It was from my new favorite place in town Cupcake Couture, a gourmet sweet boutique that specializes in fabulous cupcakes named after designers (Cocoa Chanel, Donatella Vanilla, Yves Saint Lemon). My gorgeous cake was a "Limey Pulitzer" (after Lilly Pulitzer) and consisted of delicious white cake, key lime buttercream frosting dotted with candied limes and hot pink shredded coconut - divine! It was the perfect ending to an eggcellent Easter Sunday/Birthday Dinner.




Herbed Leg of Lamb (pg. 155)
1 garlic clove, crushed
1 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 (5-6 pound) leg of lamb
1 teaspoon dried thyme
1 teaspoon dried marjoram
1 teaspoon dried rosemary
2 tablespoons flour
1 cup white wine
1 cup water
Mix the garlic, salt and olive oil in a small bowl. Spread over the lamb. Sprinkle with the thyme, rosemary, marjoram, and flour. Place on a rack in a shallow roasting pan and add the wine and water to the pan. Roast at 325 degrees for 2.5 hours, basting frequently with the pan juices. Serves eight.

"Savor the Moment" Top 10 Valentine's Day Recipes (and a few Champagne Recommendations!)

Valentine's Day is this Sunday and I'm sure everyone already has their cards bought, presents wrapped and flowers ordered - right? If not, don't fret! Why not dazzle your siginificant other in the kitchen this year? With your cooking skills, of course!

Here are The "Savor the Moment" Top 10 Valentine's Day Recipes (according to me). I chose these recipes from those I have already made and blogged about (except for one, can you guess what it is?) - they are some of my favorites. Whether you're throwing a party or making a romantic dinner for two, these recipes will have your guest(s) lining up to kiss the cook!

The "Savor the Moment" Top 10 Valentine's Day Recipes:

1. Brie in Puff Pastry with Berry Sauce (pg. 58) (instead of a bow, make a puff pastry heart to put on top)

2. Roasted Sea Bass in Prosciutto (pg. 178)

3. Filet Mignon with Shallot Sauce (pg. 149)

4. Pork with Cherry Sauce (pg. 166)

5. Chicken Veronique with Fresh Peaches (pg. 172)

6. Tortellini alla Prosciutto (pg. 205)

7. Green Beans and (more than) Friends (pg. 216)

8. Champagne Truffles (pg. 36)

9. Praline Bananas Foster (pg. 137)

10. Fallen Chocolate Souffle Cakes (pg. 254) For this delicious and decadent recipe click here: http://tinyurl.com/ygh7egz

As far as wine goes, there are a few requirements: a sparkling wine must be involved at some point in the evening - actually, that's the ONLY requirement! Whether it's a Cava, Cremant, Champagne or Prosecco, here are a few fabulous recommendations to satisfy your Valentine's Day cravings. These bottles can all be found at your local Total Wine store:

1. NV Mionetto Prosecco Brut $15.99

2. NV Roederer Estate Brut Estate Anderson Valley $19.99

3. NV Schramsberg Vineyards Blanc de Blancs $35.99

4. NV Laurent Perrier Brut Rose $79.99

5. 1998 Veuve Clicquot La Grande Dame $159.99

6. 2002 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Brut Rose $399.99

I hope everyone has a very Happy Valentine's Day spent with the ones they love. Please don't forget to savor every moment - enjoy and cheers!

Christmas Eve Dinner 2009: Maryland Crab Cakes, Herbed Beef Tenderloin & a "Tilt to Milt!"

With the passing of Steve’s dad, Milton Miskew, on December 9th, this holiday season had somewhat of a somber tone. Milt had been in declining health in recent years, but his mind was sharp and his warm sense of humor indelible. He passed away peacefully at home during his usual nap...a true blessing. We had just been up to North Carolina to visit him in October to celebrate his 85th birthday. We had crabs flown in from Baltimore for an authentic Maryland crab feast with the entire family – one of his favorite meals. We are so happy to have had that time with him.
On Christmas Eve this year, Steve and I were looking forward to attending an early Mass at St. Vincent’s and making a quiet, albeit delicious, dinner at home. In honor of his Dad, Steve made real Maryland crab cakes using his family’s closely gaurded recipe. They are almost entirely jumbo lump crab meat with just a little bit of the secret “sauce” to bind them together. Don’t worry, Uncle Tom & Aunt Marthy, the family secret is safe with us! With the crab cakes we enjoyed Veuve Clicquot Brut Champagne NV which was a wonderful pairing with its lively apple and citrus notes and the perfect choice for a “tilt to Milt.”





For our second course, I made the Herbed Beef Tenderloin with Shallot Wine Sauce (pg. 148) from “Savor the Moment.” I halved the recipe since, as is, it feeds eight: nothing wrong with having some leftovers! The tenderloin is marinated in a delicious mixture of rosemary, thyme, garlic, shallots, orange zest and spices including ground nutmeg, cloves and bay leaf. It’s very convenient to make since you pop it in the fridge in the morning, let it marinate for 8 hours or longer and then pop it into the oven.
With meats, especially larger cuts, it’s always best to let them come to room temperature before roasting or cooking; this process is called “tempering.” Thomas Keller includes a page dedicated to the importance of tempering and resting both meats and fish in his new book “Ad Hoc at Home.” He writes, “If you put a piece of meat, poultry or fish straight from the refrigerator into a hot pan or oven, it can’t possibly cook evenly. To ensure even cooking, you must allow it to come to room temperature.” This can take as long as an hour for larger cuts of meat such as a prime rib or beef tenderloin. Hey, who am I to argue with the genius of Thomas Keller?! I do what the man says.
Once sufficiently “tempered”, I placed a meat thermometer into the thickest portion of the tenderloin before putting it into the oven. When preparing a large, read “expensive,” piece of meat, the only truly reliable way to ensure it is not over (or under) done is to use a meat thermometer. I love my Williams-Sonoma digital roasting thermometer & timer. It’s gotten us through many a Thanksgiving meal and dinner party with perfectly cooked meats and greatly decreased our reliance on the “cross your fingers” method of preparation.



The recipe states to roast the tenderloin at 400 degrees to an internal temperature of 130 degrees for rare and 140 degrees for medium. Best to opt on the under side since, when you remove the meat from the oven, it will continue to cook for an additional 10 minutes or so. Nobody likes an overdone beef tenderloin and it’s very avoidable! I cooked until the thermometer said 135 degrees and the meat came out a beautiful medium rare.
The Shallot Wine Sauce is the perfect accompaniment to the tenderloin and is made with the pan drippings from the meat together with butter, chopped shallots, fresh chives, red wine vinegar and red wine. You just reduce the mixture over medium heat for a few minutes and then spoon over the meat. Hungry yet?
I served the tenderloin with sautéed mushrooms, steamed asparagus and a special bottle of red wine: a 2003 Nickel & Nickel Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville Stelling Vineyard. Nickel & Nickel was established by the partners of Far Niente in 1997 and produces 100 percent varietal, single-vineyard wines that best express the distinct personality of each vineyard. The 100 acre Martin Stelling Vineyard, where the grapes for this wine are grown, is located in the Oakville, Napa Valley appellation and is the primary vineyard for renowned Far Niente Cabernet Sauvignon (fabulous!). The Stelling is made from 100% Cabernet Sauvignon and, upon pouring, had a gorgeous deep, ruby color with aromas of ripe berry, vanilla and spice. It was a wonderful pairing with the beef tenderloin with its rich, ripe blackberry, currant and cassis flavors with nice spiciness from the oak. Milt definitely would have approved, with his signature Ukranian toast of “Na Zdorov'ye!”
We thoroughly enjoyed our Christmas Eve dinner for two, reminiscing about Christmases past and looking forward to the beautiful day ahead.